RWW 98 Hand Tool Tips #4

In this episode, I tackle planing really thin and flexible strips. ; Sometimes this comes up when working with detailed moldings and such and this little tip is a nice one to add to the toolbox.


Stay tuned for the soon to be released Hand Tool School for more tips like this!

8 Responses to “RWW 98 Hand Tool Tips #4”

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  1. Ian Mackay says:

    This looks great Shannon…very slick site.

    The video introduction is great, good tip too on the double stick tape.

  2. Thanks for the tips! And nice shirt! :)

  3. Bryan Herde says:

    I like your site and your content. I have been enjoying the archives. I agree with Marc nice shirt

  4. Dave says:

    Great tip! Just wondering, did you have any out-takes where the double-sided tape lined up directly over a dog hole? With my luck, it would take me at least three tries to get it straight.

    • Shannon says:

      That’s funny Dave, and I am proud to say that I actually thought that one through before turning on the camera. I think I learned that the hard way. That’s because by the time I usually record, I have already done the operation a few time. Maybe I’ll start filming actual spontaneous shop time, then it will be non stop blooper reels!

  5. Good tip Shannon! Like the new look as well! Good luck with it!

  6. Hey Shannon,

    Probably a stupid question but….does a planer make wood flat/level on it own. In other words, will the shavings from the planer stop when the wood is flat, or does it keep shaving wood if you continue. When do you know when to stop planing?

    Cheers,
    Steve Campos (CamposMonster)

    • Shannon says:

      Steve this is a good question. A hand plane will keep on cutting as long as you keep pushing. So if you keep at it, you could eventually run out of wood to plane. The answer to how do you know when to stop is not easy. If you board isn’t flat, you will not get a continuous shaving with a long plane so you keep planing until you get a continuous shaving from end to end. Then you know it is flat. You have to keep that up across the width of the board to make sure it is flat entirely. You check your work with a known straight edge across the width, from end to end, and corner to corner to really check the flatness. Flatness however is really subjective to your work. Fine woodworking does not require the degree of flatness that can actually be achieved with a good quality hand plane. Usually we want to focus on the joinery points and leave it at that. The short answer to all of this is, practice, practice, practice.

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